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| The day-long wine train excursion was so much fun! |
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| Our Silver Oak winery tour and luncheon was the highlight of our trip. |
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| The elaborate four-course luncheon prepared for us at Silver Oak winery was memorable in every way. |
I thought I might be able to recreate the dish at home. So on May 28th, the day after returning from my trip to California, I emailed Silver Oak Customer Care representative Ann Tallman to respectfully inquire if Chef Orsini would be willing to share his risotto recipe with me. I suggested that it would be no problem if the Chef wanted to send me his bulk-ingredient restaurant-quantity recipe, since as an avid cook I felt confident that I could reduce the measurements to a home version with no trouble.
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| This appetizer of king salmon sashimi with rice cracker, ginger and scallion was fabulous. |
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| The main course, with roasted lamb loin, smoked carrot puree and garden vegetables, was served with my favorite Silver Oak cabernet. |
I made the risotto, and it was wonderful, but it wasn't quite the same as the mouth-watering experience I'd encountered at the winery. I reached out to Chef Orsini again. He had requested feedback, after all, and I hoped he would view my questions as constructive.
My email of July 1st included nine questions: one about some of the quantities he listed, another about the amount of liquid to add, one about the salt component and other ingredients, and another about a few procedural issues I'd felt were not clear. In mid-July, Chef replied, thanking me for my feedback and vowing to review my notes and incorporate my questions into their next round of recipe-testing. Then... nothing.
On August 15th, I reached out to him again. I didn't want him to forget about me or the promise he had made. This time Chef Orsini responded to my email the same day, saying he appreciated my enthusiasm, but that summer and fall were the busiest times of year for him. He said that he and his staff would be conducting future home-recipe testing during the next off-season, likely in January 2020. Aaaarrrrggghhhh! That seemed like a lifetime to wait, but I dutifully calendared a reminder to check in with him in the first month of the new year.
I am nothing if not perserverant. One of the shareholders at the law firm at which I've been employed for 25 years told me many years ago during an annual employee review that she loved giving me the most complex issues to solve because I "was like a dog worrying a bone". I wouldn't give up until I'd found a missing witness or solved a pressing litigation issue in some satisfactory way. I took that compliment to heart.
On January 7, I reached out to Chef Orsini once again to remind him that I was still out there, still enthusiastic, still interested and waiting patiently for his further testing of the risotto recipe and, perhaps, answers to my nine questions. I heard nothing for ten days.
Then, on January 17 came a response out of the blue. Chef Orsini said the timing of my January email could not have been any better. He explained that he and his staff had been in the winery kitchen testing spring recipes and that because of my persistence, the cauliflower risotto recipe had made it onto their list for reassessment.
Furthermore, Chef said he was able to refer to the photos I'd sent him last year (of my process and results from following his previous instructions) and my questions, and he had made some adjustments to the recipe and had tweaked the procedure to make the dish "easier to make at home". Not only did he provide me with the improved recipe, but he also took time to address and answer each one of my nine questions and, best of all, he gave me permission to share the improved recipe with all of you.
Chef Orsini's email with the enhanced risotto recipe arrived in my in-box this past Friday. Early Sunday morning I was at my favorite supermarket, purchasing a head of fresh cauliflower so that I could make the dish before the San Francisco 49ers kicked off their championship game against the Green Bay Packers later that day. Here is the recipe and my process:
Ingredients:
3 slices bacon
4 cups cauliflower "rice"
2 tbs white miso
1 bay leaf
¼ cup plus 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil
½ tsp salt
2 tbs finely minced shallot
¼ cup white wine
¼ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese plus extra to garnish
1 tbs lemon zest (or chopped preserved lemon)
2 tsp lemon juice
2 tbs chopped fresh parsley
24 almonds, lightly toasted and chopped
Method
I've always fried bacon on my stovetop, but Chef advised cooking the bacon on a baking sheet in the oven for 12 minutes with the temperature set to 375⁰ F. I tried it that way for the first time and the bacon came out perfectly cooked, not too crispy at all. I buy uncured, applewood-smoked bacon for its amazing flavor. It proved to be perfect for this dish. Those three slices yielded about two tablespoons of fat, which I drained into a small bowl and set aside as instructed. Once the bacon had cooled, I chopped it into fine dice in my food processor.
I relieved my cauliflower head of its core and leaves and separated it into florets. Into my food processor went the florets, which I pulsed about thirty times. The pulsing reduced the florets to exactly four cups of perfectly sized cauliflower "rice". From the four-cup measure, I took one cup of cauliflower rice and dumped it into a small saucepan along with the half teaspoon of salt and one cup of water.
The recipe calls for one bay leaf to be added at this point. I learned many years ago that there are two distinct types of bay leaves. There are California bay leaves which are extremely pungent and grow wild all over the west coast, and then there are the more subtle Turkish bay leaves, which are primarily used for cooking. When a recipe calls for bay leaves, it usually refers to the Turkish variety, but those are harder to find in stores. If you can, make the effort to look for them, as they are better in keeping with the flavor profile sought after in most recipes. I added a Turkish bay leaf to the cup of cauliflower rice, water and salt in the small pot.
The white miso in my refrigerator is a sticky paste which had hardened over time. I softened it in the microwave and then scooped out two tablespoons as directed and added them to the saucepan. I brought the whole thing to a low simmer and and cooked it until the cauliflower was tender, about 12 minutes.
I removed the bay leaf and transferred the soupy mixture to my food processor. At this point the recipe calls for a quarter cup of olive oil to be added, so here's a short note about olive oil. Chef Orsini recommends extra virgin olive oil. I go one step further, using only first cold-pressed, extra virgin olive oil. Like Turkish bay leaves, this type of olive oil is not as common in stores, but it's definitely worth seeking out. In fact, my favorite supermarket on the east coast, Wegman's, doesn't even carry a house brand of first cold pressed, extra virgin olive oil. But they do carry Colavita's brand of first cold pressed, extra virgin olive oil, so that's what I use.
In an effort to cut back on calories, I didn't add the entire quarter cup of olive oil that Chef's recipe calls for. I added perhaps an eighth of a cup, which I found to be plenty, and whirled it all at high speed until it formed a smooth, liquidy puree, which I set aside. I ended up with 1¾ cups of puree, which is exactly what Chef Orsini said I should have.
Next I got out my two-quart saucepan and heated it over medium heat on my stovetop as instructed. I can't emphasize enough that heavy-bottomed pots and pans are absolutely best for this type of cooking. I use only Mauviel and Le Creuset cookware, which I saved up for many years ago. Unlike the cooking shows you see on television, my pots and pans do not gleam with shiny newness. They're clean, but they've dulled over several decades to a dim luster that reflects my hardworking home kitchen. Had I unlimited time on my hands and a staff, perhaps my brass and copper cookware would always be highly polished like those on the cooking shows, but I am content with my less shiny reality.
Once the larger saucepan was hot, I added the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and, when the oil sizzled, I dumped in two tablespoons of finely-diced shallots (about one medium shallot). I cooked the shallot for two minutes, until it was tender and translucent but not yet browned, then added a quarter cup of white wine. I used sauvignon blanc, since I happened to have an open bottle on hand, but Chef Orsini indicated that any white wine will do.
As instructed, I let the wine simmer until it was mostly evaporated, then stirred in the remaining three cups of cauliflower rice, the cauliflower rice puree, the chopped bacon and bacon fat, and stirred it all together until it was well blended. I turned up the heat ever so slightly to bring the mixture to a simmer, and let it cook, stirring frequently, for five minutes. As Chef Orsini advised, the final texture of the cauliflower was al dente and not mushy. He suggested that if the mixture looked too dry, a little water could be added, but I found it perfect the way it was.
While the cauliflower rice was simmering, I toasted a quarter cup of slivered almonds. One of my original questions to the chef was whether the nuts should be toasted or raw, since his original recipe had not specified. I had told him in my email of last summer that when I made his dish I had toasted mine to bring out their flavor and aroma. In his January response to my questions, Chef Orsini agreed with me, saying that he is of the school that "nuts should always be toasted unless a recipe requires them not to be". In my own home cooking, I always dry-roast whatever kind of nuts I'm using in a small, well-seasoned cast iron skillet on the stovetop, even to garnish something as simple as a green salad. It takes only a few minutes, requires no oil, and renders the nuts so much more flavorful and aromatic than they otherwise would be. I just turn the flame to its highest level, let the empty skillet become very hot, dump the nuts in, jiggle the pan a few times to toss the nuts, then turn off the heat. The residual heat in a heavy skillet will continue to brown the nuts, so I continue to toss them a few more times until they are nicely toasted, and then turn them out to cool.
The last step in the risotto-making process was to add the quarter cup of grated Parmesan, the tablespoon of lemon zest (I decided not to use preserved lemon), the two teaspoons of lemon juice and the two tablespoons of finely chopped parsley. I've been covering my herb garden with layers of burlap every night to protect it from the frigid mid-Atlantic winter temperatures and, so far, even my parsley, which usually succumbs to the cold before any of my other herbs, still looks fresh and hearty. Chef Orsini didn't say whether to use curly parsley or French, so I snipped some of each.
As instructed, I portioned the risotto into bowls and sprinkled on some shredded Parmesan, toasted almonds and chopped parsley as a garnish. I didn't have the well-recommended Alexander Valley Pinot Noir to serve with the risotto this time, so I poured a glass of flavorful sauvignon blanc, which I found went just as well.
Chef Orsini's enhanced cauliflower risotto recipe created a finished entrée that was just as I had remembered from my trip to the Silver Oak winery last May -- absolutely heavenly. Savoring such a remarkable dish was a fitting prelude to watching the 49ers emerge victorious over Wisconsin's Packers later in the day.
I can't thank Chef Orsini enough for providing me with such great feedback about his terrific risotto recipe. Making the dish that I had resolved to wait so long and patiently for was a truly gratifying experience.
Cheers,
Lynell
"There is no chance, no destiny, no fate that can hinder the firm resolve of a determined soul."
~ Ella Wheeler Wilcox
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| This incredible cheese course included a stunning presentation of goat Gouda cremeux with beet dukkah, red-wine gelée and edible flowers. |
My email of July 1st included nine questions: one about some of the quantities he listed, another about the amount of liquid to add, one about the salt component and other ingredients, and another about a few procedural issues I'd felt were not clear. In mid-July, Chef replied, thanking me for my feedback and vowing to review my notes and incorporate my questions into their next round of recipe-testing. Then... nothing.
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| This was the entire menu for our Silver Oak luncheon. Unfortunately, I failed to get a photo of the risotto course because I ate it so fast! |
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| On Sunday, we met with my brother, Dave, and his wife, Jane, at the Domain Carneros winery, where we learned all about the history of champagne. |
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| On our last day in California, we explored Old Sacramento and dined at the Rio City Cafe, where we were treated like royalty. |
Then, on January 17 came a response out of the blue. Chef Orsini said the timing of my January email could not have been any better. He explained that he and his staff had been in the winery kitchen testing spring recipes and that because of my persistence, the cauliflower risotto recipe had made it onto their list for reassessment.
 |
| The version I made last summer seemed slightly different from what I had enjoyed at the winery. I asked the chef why and he provided me with a revised recipe for his fabulous cauliflower risotto. |
Chef Orsini's email with the enhanced risotto recipe arrived in my in-box this past Friday. Early Sunday morning I was at my favorite supermarket, purchasing a head of fresh cauliflower so that I could make the dish before the San Francisco 49ers kicked off their championship game against the Green Bay Packers later that day. Here is the recipe and my process:
Ingredients:
3 slices bacon
4 cups cauliflower "rice"
2 tbs white miso
1 bay leaf
¼ cup plus 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil
½ tsp salt
2 tbs finely minced shallot
¼ cup white wine
¼ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese plus extra to garnish
1 tbs lemon zest (or chopped preserved lemon)
2 tsp lemon juice
2 tbs chopped fresh parsley
24 almonds, lightly toasted and chopped
Method
I've always fried bacon on my stovetop, but Chef advised cooking the bacon on a baking sheet in the oven for 12 minutes with the temperature set to 375⁰ F. I tried it that way for the first time and the bacon came out perfectly cooked, not too crispy at all. I buy uncured, applewood-smoked bacon for its amazing flavor. It proved to be perfect for this dish. Those three slices yielded about two tablespoons of fat, which I drained into a small bowl and set aside as instructed. Once the bacon had cooled, I chopped it into fine dice in my food processor.
 |
| I prepped and assembled all my ingredients beforehand. |
I relieved my cauliflower head of its core and leaves and separated it into florets. Into my food processor went the florets, which I pulsed about thirty times. The pulsing reduced the florets to exactly four cups of perfectly sized cauliflower "rice". From the four-cup measure, I took one cup of cauliflower rice and dumped it into a small saucepan along with the half teaspoon of salt and one cup of water.
The recipe calls for one bay leaf to be added at this point. I learned many years ago that there are two distinct types of bay leaves. There are California bay leaves which are extremely pungent and grow wild all over the west coast, and then there are the more subtle Turkish bay leaves, which are primarily used for cooking. When a recipe calls for bay leaves, it usually refers to the Turkish variety, but those are harder to find in stores. If you can, make the effort to look for them, as they are better in keeping with the flavor profile sought after in most recipes. I added a Turkish bay leaf to the cup of cauliflower rice, water and salt in the small pot.
 |
| I learned some new techniques, such as cooking my bacon in the oven instead of frying it. |
I removed the bay leaf and transferred the soupy mixture to my food processor. At this point the recipe calls for a quarter cup of olive oil to be added, so here's a short note about olive oil. Chef Orsini recommends extra virgin olive oil. I go one step further, using only first cold-pressed, extra virgin olive oil. Like Turkish bay leaves, this type of olive oil is not as common in stores, but it's definitely worth seeking out. In fact, my favorite supermarket on the east coast, Wegman's, doesn't even carry a house brand of first cold pressed, extra virgin olive oil. But they do carry Colavita's brand of first cold pressed, extra virgin olive oil, so that's what I use.
 |
| You can buy pre-made "cauliflower rice" at most grocery stores now, but I like to make my own. It's less expensive and I get exactly the consistency I want. |
In an effort to cut back on calories, I didn't add the entire quarter cup of olive oil that Chef's recipe calls for. I added perhaps an eighth of a cup, which I found to be plenty, and whirled it all at high speed until it formed a smooth, liquidy puree, which I set aside. I ended up with 1¾ cups of puree, which is exactly what Chef Orsini said I should have.
Next I got out my two-quart saucepan and heated it over medium heat on my stovetop as instructed. I can't emphasize enough that heavy-bottomed pots and pans are absolutely best for this type of cooking. I use only Mauviel and Le Creuset cookware, which I saved up for many years ago. Unlike the cooking shows you see on television, my pots and pans do not gleam with shiny newness. They're clean, but they've dulled over several decades to a dim luster that reflects my hardworking home kitchen. Had I unlimited time on my hands and a staff, perhaps my brass and copper cookware would always be highly polished like those on the cooking shows, but I am content with my less shiny reality.
 |
| I put one cup of the cauliflower rice in a small pan, added miso, salt, some water and a bay leaf, let it simmer and then pureed it. |
As instructed, I let the wine simmer until it was mostly evaporated, then stirred in the remaining three cups of cauliflower rice, the cauliflower rice puree, the chopped bacon and bacon fat, and stirred it all together until it was well blended. I turned up the heat ever so slightly to bring the mixture to a simmer, and let it cook, stirring frequently, for five minutes. As Chef Orsini advised, the final texture of the cauliflower was al dente and not mushy. He suggested that if the mixture looked too dry, a little water could be added, but I found it perfect the way it was.
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| I sizzled shallots in a bit of oil and then added white wine, the rest of the cauliflower rice, the puree, the bacon and its drippings, and let it all simmer. |
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| Toasting almonds (or any nuts) before adding them brings out the flavor and aroma and enhances almost any dish. |
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| Wow! What a fantastic dish! And it's so much easier than traditional risotto which requires 20 solid minutes of constant stirring. Plus, this version is super healthy, coming in at just 275 calories per serving. |
Chef Orsini's enhanced cauliflower risotto recipe created a finished entrée that was just as I had remembered from my trip to the Silver Oak winery last May -- absolutely heavenly. Savoring such a remarkable dish was a fitting prelude to watching the 49ers emerge victorious over Wisconsin's Packers later in the day.
I can't thank Chef Orsini enough for providing me with such great feedback about his terrific risotto recipe. Making the dish that I had resolved to wait so long and patiently for was a truly gratifying experience.
Cheers,
Lynell
"There is no chance, no destiny, no fate that can hinder the firm resolve of a determined soul."
~ Ella Wheeler Wilcox
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